Wednesday 5 October 2016

Galeries Lafayette and Sacre Coeur



This morning it’s all about the Blue Jay’s win over the Orioles last night. Billie and I went out in the early evening to take a bus down through the city. Once down in the Latin Quarter, however, we opted to get off and stroll along St Germain des Pres, looking at the multitudes who brave the cool night air to sit in three-deep rows outside the famous Parisian cafes. Down St Michel and a stop at the Hagen Daz shop close to the river for a chat with the friendly and not-too-busy server. We indulged, possibly the main reason neither of us was able to go to sleep until long after midnight. I would try but shortly would hop up to see if the Jays game was on yet – it started close to 2:30 AM our time. I went to sleep for about four hours when it was 1-0 for the Jays and arose close to 6:30 for the glorious news of their win!

But back to yesterday. The beautiful fall weather is holding for our visit. In the late morning we went via our local Metro to the Galeries Lafayette. I especially wanted to show Billie the spectacular dome at its center, stained glass a des Artes Nouveaux. She was so distracted by the chi-chi counter displays (not her favorite) that she paid little attention to the upper scenery. She did enjoy, however, the seventh floor terrace where we sat for some time in the bright sunlight with other happy tourists, taking in an overview of the Opera and other nearby gems. One mammoth outer wall of the Galerie is a hanging garden of over a hundred different species of plants, all edible, some important medically. Small photos in a display show about ten of these, explaining the nature and usage of each. It was all quite cheerful. The leader of some students engaged a German couple to take a succession of photos of their group. We retreated to the sixth floor which is dedicated to good food and expensive gifts to carry home. I had some salad while Billie enjoyed the wifi; the costly presents were eschewed.

I had thought of walking about that area but a last second decision put us onto a bus up toward Sacre Coeur. Thinking of the state of feet and legs after days of 10 plus K walks, I opted for the funicular to gain a closer proximity to the church. As we were about to enter, we heard some lively African music just off to the left. We paused to take it in, staying close to a half hour as part of a growing gaggle of passers-by, enchanted by the power and beauty of the music as well as the showmanship of the musicians. They were three – later I found that they were from different countries: Senegal, the Ivory Coast, and a third that I don’t recall. Each could sing and play either their only guitar or the over turned box that they used as a drum. One could make the sound of a horn just with his mouth, moving his fingers the while, as though truly playing that instrument. They went into a lengthy rendition of Stand By Me, in their own languages, French, and English, encouraging us to join in with singing and clapping. Two spectators, a man and a woman, who spoke the African language they were using, joined in with them most beautifully, delighting the musicians and the rest of us. This sequence continued for at least 20 minutes, the crowd continuing to gather and to participate. It was really fun; their musicianship and singing were superb. I purchased their CD to bring them home.

Sacre Coeur was anti-climactic after that display but we walked about and reflected on the significant difference between this church and Billie’s Gothic fav, Notre Dame. From the heights we descended into the streets below, walking that area of artistic days-of-yore, hopped on the Metro and returned chez nous for some supper. I had no trouble getting Billie up yesterday, I’m happy to report. She was getting ready to roll after the first quarter-hour call. We will soon go out to explore the area of the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysees. Tomorrow will be a full day of travel by train to Venice via Milan.



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